My Air Tube keeps deflating, does it have a puncture?

No, well it’s highly unlikely. There are two types of valves on the market: the Speed Valve and the Boston Valve.

We use the simple Boston Valve. It is welded on, so the only time this can leak is if the valve hasn't been tightened or there is dirt inside.

If you have a Speed Valve, the air valves are screwed on and can become loose, allowing air to slowly leak out. However, there’s a handy tool in your peg bag that is there to tighten the valve. This will fix the issue 99.9% of the time.

It is advised that on first use, and any use after a prolonged period of time, you should check these valves before inflating.

If the tube is still leaking air, try filling the tube to the recommended PSI, then press in the quick release to rapidly deflate the tube. There may be some dirt or debris in the valve that’s stopping it from sealing, and the rapid gust of air can help to dislodge any blockage.

What does my Lifetime Product Guarantee cover?

The Holawild Lifetime Product Guarantee, from the date of purchase will guarantee we will stock replacement parts, spares for 10 years post purchase. If we do not stock, or can no longer get the stock, we will replace your product free of charge for the nearest like for like model.

What Warranty do you provide?

We provide a comprehensive 2-year standard warranty that can be extended to 3 years by registering with us (if you purchase direct from us, you are automatically registered). Holawild cover component, material or manufacturing faults which have occurred during normal recreational usage. The Warranty excludes fair wear and tear, accidental damage and damage resulting from acts of nature, improper care or use.

How can I clean my tent/awning?

DO NOT machine wash or tumble dry as this will damage the waterproofing. Inner-tents can be washed in non-detergent soap flakes. The flysheet should be sponge cleaned with warm water only.

How do I connect my awning to my Campervan, Motorhome, or Caravan?

There are numerous different ways to connect our awnings to your vehicle. The best fit can be achieved using the awning rail, but the vehicle must be lined back up again after driving away. Having said this, the alignment can be easily marked by placing a brightly coloured "domed" peg into the ground directly next to the base centre of each tyre on this side of the vehicle. The "domed" pegs pose no threat to the tyres and can be easily seen and driven up to. This way, the fit of the awning to the vehicle will be much better than with straps.

You can use straps to connect your awning to your vehicle so long as you do not have a pop top. To do this you would need to use one of our Kador Convertors, which is a 3m section of awning piping/Kador. Along the length, there are 5 webbing loops to which guy ropes or straps can be secured. The Kador Convertor can then be attached directly to the awning using the Figure of 8 Strip provided with most of our awnings. Then the awning can be tied or strapped to the vehicle. We would also recommend that the guy ropes/straps are connected to roof bars/racks and not allowed to contact directly with the paintwork of the vehicle. Natural movement of the guy ropes/straps may mark/scratch the vehicle. With this method, after driving away, you will not need to line your van up perfectly with the awning.

The third method would be to use a Pole and Clamp Kit. This way, the lining up process is not so critical as the awning is connected up to the gutter of your vehicle and then run the connection pole through the sleeves of the awning and "clamp" of the gutter.

Having exhibited our awnings on numerous vehicles, including VW's and similar-sized vehicles, we would recommend using the awning rail to connect as the fit is much better, and the lining up is made easy with the help of the domed pegs.

How can I reduce condensation in my tent/awning?

A common problem experienced by many campers is condensation. This is caused by moisture in the atmosphere forming beads or droplets of water when coming into contact with a cold surface. This may form on the walls of the inner-tent, but more likely on the inside of the flysheet. Condensation can also occur on the groundsheet of the tent, particularly under air mattresses, bed rolls, and other equipment. The use of Holawild original stone protection sheets may help to reduce the problem and will help to protect the sewn-in groundsheet. Always ensure that the Stone Protection Sheet does not protrude the edge of the flysheet. The storing of wet clothing and other wet articles inside the tent will also increase the likelihood of condensation. To reduce condensation as a whole, never cook in your tent and ensure that the tent is well ventilated at all times by using either the flysheet mesh vents if applicable and/or the mosquito net doors on the inner-tent.

If there is a "Roof Liner" accessory for your product, these are recommended as this traps a layer of air between the main living area and the outerfly, reducing condensation massively.

AirTubes also have a habit of causing condensation. This is unavoidable, as this is down to the change in air temperature within tubes, which isn't as controllable as the inside temperature of the tent.